The marks are -5, 0, 5, 10 13-15, 20. TDC (0) is the yellow mark.

 

ok, so I have it at 17 not 22, or at least that is what it indicates with the tps connected. However, I still can't get the car to idle with the tps disconnected-- it revs to like 2200 at least and stays there, and therefore don't get an accurate timing reading.

Don't understand. On se-r.net it said you have to adjust the timing with the tps disconnected but I can't. Are the ve's different or something or could something else be wrong??

--Eduardo

 

figured it out I think. you have to disconnect the tps with the engine running.

Then it drops down to 1000 rpms. Then I set the timing at this point correct, after reving the engine a few times.

Just wondering because this is a little higher than my idle speed with the tps connected. So with the tps disconnected I set it at 22 degrees, when I connect it back up again it says about 17-18 degrees. Which reading is correct. I'm assuming the first because of the instructions on se-r.net, but some input would be appreciated.

Excuse my ignorance here, this is the first time of done a timing adjustment myself, and I don't want to screw it up.

Eduardo

 

Set your idle speed first. I just set the timing on my car 2 days ago.

1. Warm the car up to operating temp

2. Run it at 2k rpm under no load with no accessories on for 2 minutes

3. Rev it 2-3 times

4. Shut it off and disconnect the TPS

5. Start it up and rev it over 3k rpm 3 times

6. Adjust base idle to ~850

7. Set timing to 22 with de ecu or 15 with jwt ecu

 

ok, I tried all that. basically, the problem is the idle won't adjust stay at ~850 with the timing at 22 degrees. It jumps to around 1000 min. with the idle screw all the way in. I was just wondering then if that's an accurate timing measure, because when I plug the tps back in it reads around ~17 degrees, not 22.

 

ok, I tried all that. basically, the problem is the idle won't adjust stay at ~850 with the timing at 22 degrees. It jumps to around 1000 min. with the idle screw all the way in. I was just wondering then if that's an accurate timing measure, because when I plug the tps back in it reads around ~17 degrees, not 22.

Mine idles at 900rpm or so. I checked it with a digital Snap-On scanner, and it was right on 15 deg. Why are you advancing the timing? Also, what AAC valve are you using? I'm using the VE one.

 

switching from ve ecu and ve maf to de ecu, de maf (with ve injectors). aac valve not sure. Where is it??

--eduardo.

 

Its where you adjust the idle speed. on top of the intake mani.

You are going to run very rich with that setup. I ran for 2500 miles with a de ecu, ve inj, and a bored de maf. Even with the extra air coming in to offset the injector size it was pretty rich.

I've had the jwt in for 3 days now and the car keeps running better and better. Its a big improvement from my temp setup I had above.

 

I know where the idle speed adjuster is, it just won't adjust below 1000 rpm with the timing around22 and the tps disconnected when I'm trying to set it.

You know what would help me the most at this point is to know if you can measure (not set) the timing accurately with the tps connected. With the tps connected I'm getting 17 degrees with an idle of about ~800. Is that an accurate timing reading??

$600 bucks fo jw ecu-- not worth it for me. I can always switch back to the ve ecu with ve maf if I don't like this, but would like to give this a try first. Maybe if I get cams at some point and need a higher rev. limit, but right now, its not worth it. I just got d2 coilovers, and greddy mss, so the bank is broke man.

 

I recommend unplug the AAC and see if you can get the idle speed down to 800rpm. That is what I had to do on my DE with the S3s so the ecu would idle at the target 950rpm.

 

I tried that but the engine dies and I don't have anyone here to stay on the gas. Even then its almost impossible to keep it at ~800 rpms.

 

ok, bumped timing up some more, with the idle at 1000 and tps disconnected--- in timing mode in other words. Now it reads 21-23 (ok it jumps around a little) once I reconnect the tps.

It runs alot better, and not as rich smelling (gas smell), and by butt dyno pulls a little better. Don't notice any unusual sounds from engine.

What do pinging and detonation sound like?? I think I've heard pinging before in another car (like a slapping sound or is that piston slap?)

 

Dialed the timing back because the greddy mss is now briefly flashing a warning signal around 5000 rpms when I have it flored. I don't know why, but it was enough to concern me a little.

I think I'm just going to have to get this done at a shop. They can get a timing from the computer and set it this way correct?? I can't get my car to idle around 850 with the throttle body disconnected. Hell I'll pay the $60 bucks, don't wan't to risk damaging my $2000 investment,

Eduardo

--

 

Nope it doesn't work like that.

I think I'm just going to have to get this done at a shop. They can get a timing from the computer and set it this way correct?? --

 

Ok, finally figured out how to do this.

First I had to set the idle really high with the tps connected.

Then I disconnect tps ( I still had to do this with car running though for it to work) and rev a few times over 3,000 rpm. Then I used the idle screw which was open most of the way and take it back to ~800 rpm.

Then I set the timing around 21-22 degrees. I had actually gestimated it right before, based on where the distributor was rotated to, and by how it felt on the road. But now at least I know its correct.

Turns out the greddy beeping thing had nothing to do with it. I must have messed up one of the setting on the mss while I was playing around. look into that later

 

you lalito go on aim if you can

 

Ok, y'all just an update. Switched back to the ve ecu.

Didn't like the de ecu. My car was louder and the greddy was beeping and temporarily flashing warning signals when I floored it with the de ecu, de maf, ve inj. setup even when I bumped the timing down to 17. When I finally got it to 21 still didn't run as smoothly as I'd hoped.

Now that I have a timing light I set my timing on the ve ecu to 17 degrees and it's running nice again with ve ecu. I think a happy alternative for me will be to get a sr16ve ecu so I have some play around 7,200 rpm. I'll have my greddy mss to flash warnings once I get to 7,300 so I don't rev to high. Then later if I get cams I'll have room to play with the 8,200 rev. limit. Speed limiter on ve ecu's can be taken care of with $60 speed kill device.

I think the percieved hp gains with the de ecu were just because the car was louder, and perhaps a little jerkier feel.

Anyway, just thought I'd update. Now with ve ecu no more beeping and warning signals from the greddy mss-- have no idea why it was doing this, but don't care to find out either.